Mud Pond Hewing and Framing

Shake splitting from The Axe Wielder's Handbook, Horizon Publishers, 2002

If one has access to a froe, one may want to experiment with splitting shakes. My experience is with making pine shakes. Very few tools are needed to split a log by hand into shingles. The tools needed are the froe, the froe club and a hatchet. The froe club should be made of dense hardwood or it will not hold up under use. I am on my second froe club in twenty years of use, and the second club appears to have another 10 years of life left to it.

Shakes can be split from pines with diameters as slight as six inches, though ideally the diameter should be from 8" to 14". Greater than 14", the log should be quartered with a sledge and wedge before attempting to split out shingles.

After felling a pine, cut out sections 18" to 20" long between the whorls of knots. Only clear, knot-free wood can be split into shingles. Simply stand the wood up on a stump or chopping block. Align the froe across the center of the log. Drive the froe blade in with the froe club as deeply as possible.

Holding the log steady, pull on the froe handle until the log snaps into two halves. Take each half and halve again. Continue halving until the thickness is about 1". To assist the splitting, I frequently push against the bottom of the bolt with my knee as I pull the froe handle towards me. When the bolt is slightly over one inch thick, I make the final split. The froe is carefully centered and driven in. I hold the top of the bolt tightly together with the left hand while I press with my knee against the bolt. Slowly, controlling the split by pushing or pulling the froe handle. The split tends to run in the direction force is applied. If the split is worked properly, and the force is applied correctly, you should be rewarded with two shingles. If not the grain will run out, ruining one of the two shingles.

Trim off bark and any noticeable high points with hatchet and stack to dry. They dry quickly.

I nail them up with galvanized 5d box nails. For walls, I leave eight inches exposed.

For roofs, I leave six inches exposed. For shaking a roof, I consider a 9:12 pitch perfect. It is not too steep to work on but it is steep enough to insure quick shedding of water.